January 28, 2022

10-LED (200mW) Infrared Light

[PARTS LIST] [TOOLS LIST] [LED PATTERN] [CIRCUIT DIAGRAM] [STEP-BY-STEP]

We’ll start with a parts list. This is a list of all the items you’ll need in order to build your own 10-LED (200mW) infrared light. Most of these parts can be purchased through Amazon. As you go through this list, you’ll notice that some of these items can only be purchased in bulk packs. (For instance, you have to buy a pack of ten resistors even though this light only needs two.) This means you’ll have parts left over, but it’ll also mean there will be less to buy when it’s time to make more lights!

HOUSING

This light will require one (1) project box. This project box has a built-in compartment for the 0-volt battery.

KIT-1593Q ABS Plastic Box with Battery Compartment ($9.68ea)

https://www.amazon.com/KIT-1593Q-Black-Plastic-Compartment-PR1593Q/dp/B00M2CM1Q0

LEDS

You will need ten (10) infrared LEDs.

The LEDs I use are a bit more expensive than most. You can certainly find cheaper infrared LEDs, but I prefer these as they are 3-chip. I’ve experimented with a few different suppliers, and I think these LEDs perform better than most on the market, making them worth the added expense.

10mm 3-Chip 200mW Infrared 850nm LEDs ($15.95/pack of 10, or $1.60ea)

https://www.amazon.com/3-Chips-200mW-Infrared-850nm-30deg/dp/B0043BHB4K

CIRCUITRY

You’ll need two (2) resistors rated at 12 ohms.

Edgelec 12 Ohm Resistors 1/2 Watt ($5.99/pack of 10, or 60 cents each)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QH5QC3W

You will need one (1) 9-Volt battery connector.

Blacell 9-Volt Battery Clip Connector ($4.99/pack of 10, or 50 cents each)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZPFU8

You’ll need some scrap pieces of wire.

You can buy it online, either in pre-cut pieces or on a spool. Alternatively, you can also salvage wire from an old piece of electronic equipment you may have laying around the house.

Jabinco 24awg Stranded Wire ($7.00/pack of 100, or 7 cents each)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082SRWLC7

SWITCHES

You will need one (1) switch.

There are two different styles of switches I use with my projects: self-locking push-button switches and old-school toggle switches. Either one is fine for this project.

Cylewet 12mm Self-Locking Latching Push-Button Switch ($6.99/pack of 12, or 58 cents each)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075VBV4QH

SPST High-Current Mini Toggle Switch

https://www.amazon.com/SPST-High-Current-Mini-Toggle-Switch/dp/B007Z7OHSM

IMPORTANT NOTE: If you choose to go with a different supplier for either of the switches listed here, there are a couple of things you need to keep in mind.

Push-button style switches are used in a variety of applications and, as such, there are many different styles and designs. The style of push-button switch used for these lights MUST be self-locking. What this means is that, when you push the button, it will stay locked in place until you push it again. Push once to turn the light on. Push it again to turn it off. Self-locking.

Toggle switches MUST be designated as “single pull/single throw,” or SPST. This means that the switch will only have two operating modes: it’s either on or off. If the product description for the switch doesn’t mention if it’s SPST, then look at the terminals on the switch. SPST toggle switches will only have two terminals.

MOUNTS

You will need one (1) tripod mount. There are two different styles of tripod mounts I have used in the past, and both work equally well for this light.

Joby Cold Shoe Mount ($4.95ea)

https://joby.com/us-en/cold-shoe-mount-jb01528-pww/

TopOne 1/4″ Thread to Metal Flash Hot Shoe Mount ($6.99ea)

https://www.amazon.com/TopOne-Thread-Adapter-Studio-Tripod/dp/B017VQLL6W

If you choose to use the TopOne tripod mount, you’ll have to remove the metal pieces prior to attaching it to the light housing. This can be done using needlenose pliers and a precision scewdriver.

[PARTS LIST] [TOOLS LIST] [LED PATTERN] [CIRCUIT DIAGRAM] [STEP-BY-STEP]

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